Blasts from the past
Thames Barrier with the Isle of Dogs behind.
A full ride description
For the ride details and to download the route, click here
Slade Green railway station is not the most glamorous of places to begin a ride, but have faith - this is a wonderful ride. From the station ride down Moat Lane and let the adventure begin.
After a few metres of rutted track, you’ll pass a dilapidated farm on your left, whose yard is filled with cars in various states of ruination and rust. You’ll notice the outstanding Jacobean tithe barn and the remains of Bishop Odo’s (King William I’s half-brother) manor house, surrounded by a moat. Taking the hedge lined path, you'll continue on a rough and sometimes muddy track across the Crayford Marshes. It’s a remote and wild place and it’s hard to believe that you are still within the boundary of Greater London. Continue down the track for 3km, passing the dominating flood barrier and join the Thames Path, heading west.
Along this stretch, there are scrap yards behind walls and tethered ponies. If the tide is out, you’ll see stumps of wood sticking out of the estuarine mud - these are remnants of a forest which is at least 5,000 years old. The landscape here is open, and the cloudscape is often thrilling. The large mound across the river is the Rainham landfill site, which for over 150 years has been the burial place for much of London’s rubbish.
Once you arrive at the road, you’ll ride along a shared pavement into Erith, passing many metal scrap merchants, bus depots and aggregate industries. It’s a noisy and rough part of town, but essential to the working of the city. Follow the Route 1 signs through Erith towards the pier. This is well worth a brief diversion/stop - its the longest pier in London and is a great place to rest and watch the boats plying the river.
Follow the Route 1 signs along the river. For the next few kilometres, the scenery on both sides of the river is industrial. This part of the Thames at least, continues to be a proper working river. You’ll pass Edible Oils (where much of the UK’s kitchen oils are produced), Tarmac and concrete factories, metal works and distribution centres. At Belvedere, you will see the shapely Cory Riverside Energy plant. Some of London’s household waste is brought down on barges and incinerated here, generating power which is put into the National Grid. Next to this, is the Crossness Sewage works, one of the largest sewage works in the UK. It processes most of South East London’s effluent. Beside the modern plant is one of the greatest monuments to Victorian engineering in the UK, the Crossness Pumping station. Inside, it’s a marvel of painted iron work and was the masterwork of Joseph Bazalgette who built over 182 miles of sewage pipes under London, many of which are still used today. The plant is occasionally open for visitors. Check here for further information.
The ride continues on an entirely traffic free and beautiful asphalt cycle path, bordered by plants, sometimes planted, sometimes wild. The river is always there for company. Look out for seals basking on its banks, or bobbing about in the water. From here and for the next 5km to Woolwich, all the land on your left was from the 16th century until the late 1960s a totally enclosed secret land, under government control. You can read more about it here.
If you are hungry and thirsty, the Boulangerie Jade, or Chealson’s coffee, both in the Royal Arsenal will meet your needs. Once refreshed, continue alongside the river. From here until Greenwich, the glorious cycle path continues, with the odd ‘Cyclists Dismount’ sign to negotiate. There is no need to dismount - it’s purely advisory - however do ride with extra care through these sections.
In Greenwich, you’ll pass the famous Trafalgar pub, which is worth stopping at for a half way pint. You could stop your ride here altogether for there is a lot to see, from the National Maritime museum, to the Royal Observatory. However, let me persuade you to carry on, and perhaps return to Greenwich another time.
In front of the Cutty Sark, is the Greenwich foot tunnel. At the time of writing (2021) the lifts at either end are not working. There has been a delay in the arrival of the spare parts for the lifts. Until they are repaired, you’ll need to carry your bike down the spiral stairs and walk through the tunnel.
Once you emerge back into the daylight, there are many twists and turns of the route as it passes across Mudchute Park (so named because much of the spoil from the nearby Millwall docks was dumped here) and across the Docks themselves. Essentially head north west in a series of dog-legs - and continue to follow the Route 1 signs.
The path is well signed through Limehouse. There are a couple of short but fun cobble sections and a couple of unprotected cycle lanes to ride along. Once out of the docks, you’ll pass the incomparable Hawksmoor Church of St. Annes. Continue over Commercial road, using the cycle/pedestrian crossing, pass the huge building of The Mission, as well as the old Ragged School, and continue along along the cycle path through the delightfully landscaped Mile End Park, and into Victoria Park. Follow the Route 1 signs until you join the Lee Navigation Canal. Turn left here and follow for the next 26km.
Once on the Lee navigation, you will pass one long line of canal boats on your left, and the expansive Hackney Marshes on your left. As you continue northwards, the path becomes less urban. You’ll pass Walthamstow marshes, which is a nature reserve and where the first flights on British soil took place. Avoid, if you can, popular summer Sundays, especially when the sun shines, unless you enjoy having to give way to the many pedestrians who will also be using the path. There is another good pub to stop off at if you wish, at Tottenham Hale, The Ferry Boat Inn.
At km 56 leave the canal, and follow the signs for Waltham Abbey. The road is quite busy and there are no protected cycle lanes. It’s only for 1km, but a shock after the quietness of the route all the way from Slade Green.
Ride through the pedestrianised high street, onto the Abbey Church. Behind the East end is Harold’s grave and it is here where the ride ends. There are plenty of places to eat and drink at in the high street.
Unfortunately, if you need to take a train back home, you will have to retrace your steps alongside the busy road and continue over the canal bridge to the station of Waltham Wood. There is another option if you don’t want the road, and that is to return to the canal, and ride another 4km up to Chesthunt station, which is just off the canal path.