NCN 4 Pembroke to Fishguard
St. David’s Cathedral
Stage 7 85km
Gin, St David, and the storm
It seems appropriate to arrive in St. David’s city whilst an Atlantic storm rages, as according to legend, the Saint himself was born on a clifftop during a storm. St David, is reputed to have been a very fine preacher and he’d have had something to say on how such weather can make a man or woman, feel very much alive. The reward for stormy travails are some of the best oysters in the land accompanied by hand-crafted gin whose main botanical is seaweed. The city is a ‘foodie’ heaven and part of the day’s challenge is deciding where to eat. Whatever the weather, this coastal day from Pembroke to Fishguard is magnificent; the sea and a rich land on either side of you. The lanes are narrow, the sea air intoxicating in its ozone freshness.
Ride Practicalities
START/FINISH: Pembroke/Fishguard DISTANCE: 82km TOTAL ASCENT: 1037m TERRAIN AND SURFACES: Narrow, high-hedged lanes with little or no traffic. The route is best suited to 28mm tyres RECOMMENDED CAFÈS/PUBS; St. David; St. David’s Gin and Kitchen The Really Wild Emporium CAMPING/ACCOMMODATION; St. David’s Kitchen MAINLINE RAILS; Pembroke, Fishguard LINKS TO OTHER RIDES:
Ride Notes
Leaving Pembroke, the road heads across the peninsula to Haverfordwest. Fortunately the route avoids Milford Haven, which because it is one of the best natural harbours in the land, it has become the port for imported principle oil and gas. At Broadhaven, you return to the sea, rollercoasting along narrow barely used lanes along the cliff tops until an almost hidden valley reached. And there, nestling out of the wind is Britain’s smallest city, St. David’s.
To call St. David’s a city is a misnomer since the place is smaller than many villages, but clearly H.M. The Queen did not think size was important when she conferred by Royal Charter, city status to the city/village in 1995.
St. David, like most Celtic saints, must have been a hard man who reduced his life to a few uncomfortable basics. He founded a strict monastic order and was thought to have been an influential preacher. After his death, miracles were said to have happened near his tomb, which gave him saint’s status. The Pope decreed that two pilgrimages to the tomb of St. David equalling one to Rome. So if you thought your sins were to be forgiven for having cycled here, it’s bad luck, as you’re now bound to return. There are regular concerts and of course services in this intimate space, but perhaps best of all, after all those kilometres is just to sit awhile within the fulsome silence of the thick stone walls.
Lunch is a must in St.David’s for Fishguard is short on gastronomic excellence. St. David’s Kitchen also distill their own gin, a fabulous affair whose key ingredient is sea weed collected in the bay. The oysters are superb too. An alternative is the Really Wild Emporium who forage around the lanes and the shore to create some imaginative dishes.
It’s little more than an hour or so to Fishguard. The narrow roads gently roll like waves. There are stone walls, sheep and rocky outcrops to enjoy as well of course, the sea itself. There’s a final downhill on a path into Fishguard, where the route ends just short of the ferry terminal. A hundred metres or so is the train station, with regular trains to Swansea and Cardiff.
To return to stage 6, click here
All the details given on this route are given in good faith. However, situations on the ground can change, so if you know of any access issues, closures, or have any thoughts and feedback on the route, please include them in the comments section below.