NCN 4 Greenwich to Windsor
Greenwhich Park and Observatory
Rivers, Palaces and Parks
Greenwich - where time begins.
Greenwich - where East meets West
Greenwich - where this journey starts
Consider this opening stage of the National Cycle Route 4 as a Royal Processional Route. For over 500 years, monarchs have travelled this self same route from Placentia, their palace in Greenwich, to their castle at Windsor. They used the river rather than roads, to move from Palace to Palace, and this route does the same, except that we ride on paths beside the river rather than in boats upon the river. As with the Royals before us, we call at various Palaces along the way; The Tower of London, Westminster, Richmond, Hampton and Windsor. The route of course, is not just about Royalty, its a ride through one of the world’s greatest cities, enjoying over 1000 years of architecture as well as everything else that the city affords; great pubs, cafes, and parks. Once out of town, you pedal through two Royal deer parks and along the sylvan river which bustles with oarsmen and craft. This is a ride which could be covered in a few short hours, or over a life-time. Perhaps, in view of the need to complete the journey to Wales, you’ll need to settle for something in between the extremes.
Ride Practicalities
START/FINISH: Greenwich/Windsor DISTANCE: 79km TOTAL ASCENT: 435m TERRAIN AND SURFACES: Traffic-free throughout other than a couple of short sections in South London where you ride on quiet roads. The 300m long Putney Bridge, to its shame, has no cycleway, so if you’re unused to city traffic, wheel your bike on the pavement. The route alongside the Thames is hard-packed gravel. There is one rough, but short up-hill section up to Windsor Great Park. Overall the route is best suited to 28mm tyres RECOMMENDED CAFÈS/PUBS; Rotherhithe; The Watchhouse, The Mayflower, Albert Bridge; Cafe Pier, Walton; The Anglers Arms, Windsor; Cinnamon Cafe NEARBY MAINLINE TRAIN SERVICES: Greenwich/Windsor and Eton - plenty of mainline stations all in all the towns along the route - e.g. Richmond, Staines etc. LINKS TO OTHER RIDES: London to Windsor, Wren’s Monuments, Arcadian Thames, Chiswick to Greenwich
Ride Notes
It can be a challenge leaving Greenwich, for being a UNESCO World Heritage Site there is much to see. You might consider spending a whole day here before setting off as there is much to enjoy; The Painted Hall, the National Maritime Museum, the Royal Observatory, Greenwich Park, Greenwich town itself, and The Cutty Sark. However, once you’re ready to clip in, follow the little red signs for the NCN 4 which you pick up beyond the Cutty Sark. Ignore all the blue Cyclist Dismount signs which seem to grow like weeds outside the new developments fronting the river. They are purely advisory and seek to clutter up the paths; just ride with due awareness of others.
The way continues through the unfashionable parts of town, which are no less interesting than the tourist-packed centre of the city. You pedal through the old Surrey Docks and into Rotherhithe and a short while later, Bermondsey. There is tremendous architecture, river views and history all along the path. In Southwark, you’ll be weaving through the crowds as you - and they - enjoy the gastronomic delights of Borough Market, the spiritual delight of Southwark Cathedral (from where Chaucer’s Pilgrims set off) as well as the Clink and other nefarious delights of South London, including the Bishop of Winchester’s palace where he kept his whores. Other delights include a replica of the Golden Hinde, the first ship to circumnavigate the world, the Shard, The Globe (Shakespeare’s theatre), the Tate Modern and the South Bank. Across the river, thereat monuments of London, St, Paul’s Cathedral, and The Houses of Parliament are seen best from where you are, on the south side of the river.
At Lambeth, you have the first river crossing, using the cycleway, and the ride continues on the north bank for a while through the increasingly residential districts of Pimlico, Chelsea and Fulham. Gracious housing and intimate gardens line the route. The river is crossed again at Putney - one of the few sections of no cycle lane - and then its onto a hard packed gravel tow path. The path is wide and firm, but shared, and there are the usual selection of dogs to negotiate.
There are around 630 red and fallow deer in Richmond Park, who graze the nationally important acid grasslands of the Park. If you ride through the park at the end of summer, through the autumn, you’ll be there for the rut. Male red deer hurl themselves at each other armed with their massive antlers. When not fighting, they bellow, a deep throated, steam roar, whilst their harems nonchantly get on with the business of grazing. Once out of the park, there are glorious traffic-free miles alongside the Thames to Hampton Court. Henry VIII was given it by his Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, in the hope that the king would show clemency towards his long serving and loyal minister. It was not to be. Henry took the palace and planned to execute his Cardinal, who died on the journey to the Tower. The Palace was a refuge for monarchs until the end of George II’s reign in 1760. The Palace is stupendous, both inside and out, and it’ll be a challenge to ride on without stopping. It’s a challenge too, to see it all in one day.
After the palace, it’s back across the river for the third time and for the next hour or so, you ride on a superb, hard gravel-packed track. The river is alive with wildfowl, boats and skiffs. The commands of boat masters instructing their crews through megaphones, the arguments of coots, the gliding of swans and the whisperings of willows are all part of the river scene - as are the many pubs along the way, not least the Angler’s Arms at Walton.
This stage’s penultimate crossing of the Thames is on a ferry which you summon (between 9-5) with a bell. Then, it’s through Chertsey and Staines, the route using a shared pavement beside roads to the edge of Runnymede, where the Magna Carta was sealed in 1215. The Great Charter created the idea that all, including the most powerful, are not above the law. After the water meadows, you haul yourself up a short, but steep hill on a rough track up, to the RAF National Memorial. Thousands of names are inscribed into the walls. It is a sombre and reflective place to spend a while.
Thence, you ride into Windsor Great Park, taking care not to exceed the 38mph speed limit as you glide down the smoothest roads in the kingdom. You ride past polo fields, gracious avenues of trees, ancient oaks and the Savill Gardens, one of the very best gardens in the country, especially in the spring. The final downhill section takes you into Windsor’s backstreets and ends outside the main gate to the Castle, the longest inhabited castle in the world. Other than in the depths of winter, you’ll need to book ahead if you wish to visit.
Windsor is full of places to stay. The usual apps will help you decide depending on your budget.
To go straight to Stage 2 of the NCN 4, click here
All the details given on this route are given in good faith. However, situations on the ground can change, so if you know of any access issues, closures, or have any thoughts and feedback on the route, please include them in the comments section below.