NCN 4 Caerphilly to Llanelli
Nant Erin Valley
106km Caerphilly to Llanelli
Any thoughts that this was going to be a nice and gentle ride across southern England and Wales, will be challenged today, for we ride today in amongst the fabled Welsh valleys. And logically enough, between each valley, there are hills, which after the ease of England, can be a little untamed. An Atlantic storm decided to make landfall on my ride, and horizontal rain and gales were not conducive to taking the camera out.
Ride Practicalities
START/FINISH: Caerphilly/Llanelli DISTANCE: 106km TOTAL ASCENT: 931m TERRAIN AND SURFACES: Narrow, high-hedged lanes with little or no traffic, mixed with bridleways which can be rough. The route is best suited to 28mm tyres RECOMMENDED CAFÈS/PUBS; There are no recommended cafes along this section. For a cafe/pub to be recommended it has to reach certain ‘Wheels’ criteria including, the welcome, bike facilities, quality food and drink CAMPING; NEARBY MAINLINE TRAIN SERVICES: Port Talbot, Swansea, Llanelli LINKS TO OTHER RIDES:
Every Valley shall be exalted
Ride Notes
I tried to swim the channel once. But I used too much grease. I kept slipping out of the water'.’ Tommy Cooper, son of Caerphilly
Caerphilly is known for three things; its castle, Tommy Cooper and its cheese. Of the latter there is no evidence, neither in the shops nor restaurants. Of Cooper, there’s a bronze outside the castle gates, resplendent in his fez. The castle, the second largest in the UK, is magnificent; dark, cold and mighty as any fortress should be.
Caerphilly Castle was built in a hurry on the orders of Edward I, to quell the rebellious Welsh. Not that Llewellyn ap Graffudd had read the script, for in 1316, he stormed the outer walls with the help of 10,000 Welshmen. He failed to take the inner wards and for six months lay siege to the castle. Finally the English army managed to lure the Welsh away and Llewellyn who had surrendered, was hung, drawn and quartered in Cardiff.
From Caerphilly, the route uses narrow country lanes before arriving in Pontypridd, home to the ‘House of Pain', otherwise known as Pontypridd’s rugby ground which dominated Welsh Club rugby for much of the ‘70s. Once through the town, the ride becomes a joyous lump of ride, through valleys and over the hills, on more narrow and sometimes rough, narrow lines. Linking the lanes are sections of bridleway, which can be rough under the tyre.
Before the Margam Country Park, there’s a short stretch beside the busy A48, where you ride on a smooth segregated cycle lane. After the Country Park, the riding is much more industrial. Towns are functional - just - with bleak housing and poorly stocked convenience stores. Ahead, are the smoking towers of the Port Talbot Steel Works, Britain’s largest, although this is once again under threat. The sweet mountain air is replaced with astringent chemicals, and smoke pours out of chimneys. From this industrial gruel, which is one of the most deprived towns in the UK, came the talents of Richard Burton, Anthony Hopkins and Michael Sheen. Wales has fabulous bike lanes and a selection of these take you into Swansea, through the regenerated port with its ubiquitous glass and steel modern blocks and chain restaurants, to the beach.
After the hills and lanes of the morning, the riding is flat and perfectly lovely beside the sea. (unless there’s a major Atlantic storm coming in, which explains the lack of photos). Other than a short climb to Dunvant, the route is flat lined with green fields and willows and unexceptional to Llanelli.
Llanelli’s steel industry struggles on outside town, but much of its former industries including brewing, have gone, leaving a shell of town. Even the rugby team, The Scarletts are not the force they once were. One of the many pleasures of cycle touring along the National Cycle Network is to visit places which you may never have otherwise come to. Their history, their present and their community are as much part of the nation as any town with glamorous castles and bucolic countryside.
To go straight to stage 6, click here
To return to stage 4, click here
All the details given on this route are given in good faith. However, situations on the ground can change, so if you know of any access issues, closures, or have any thoughts and feedback on the route, please include them in the comments section below.