38km Lama Bianca — Where my wheels go

Ride overview
Fast pants the cooling stream
Not everyone in Italy thought that the Unification of the various kingdoms was a good thing; indeed many saw it as just another conquest of their lands, this time from the Piedmontese. The lands around the Maiella were the scene of many skirmishes between the Piedmontese army and groups of brigands - or freedom fighters depending on your point of view at the time - who roamed the mountains ambushing the soldiers. This ride in particular, touches the roads and woods of the conflict; however, you are not going to encounter any violence, rather this is a particularly idyllic ride through an especially lovely part of the Maiella National Park. Along the way are plenty of streams in which to bathe, fountains to slake your thirst and views to make you stop and exclaim.

Ride Practicalities
START/FINISH: Parking in Sant’Eufemia DISTANCE: 38km TOTAL ASCENT: 1265m TERRAIN AND SURFACES: Mainly mule tracks which are wide and brililant to ride on. There’s a short tarmac section near Passo S Leonardo FOOD AND DRINK: There are plenty of fountains along the route to replenish bidons. Trattoria Maiella in Sant’Eufemia a Maiella serves typical Abruzzese plates LINKS TO OTHER RIDES: Caramanico - P. S. Leonardo

WHAT TO SEE/VISIT: In Sant’Eufemia a Maiella, there is a botanical museum, the Giardino Daniela Brescia showcasing the many flowers of the Maiella

Ride Notes
From the pretty village of Sant’Eufemia a Maiella, the route heads up on an old mule track. It is lovely riding, with views all around both of the Maiella and across the valley to Mt.Morrone. At the fonte della Fratta - the route continues into woods which in summer offer delicious respite from the heat. In autumn, the colours are spectacular.

The mule track twists and turns and continues up hill, and the breaks in the trees offer more fabulous views of Mt. Morrone and the Orta valley. Butterflies dance in the light beams, flowers lure bees and the ride is one great delight. Where streams fall down the mountain side, wild raspberries and cherries can be gorged upon.

Following the cycle path 2A, you continue to climb towards the Rifugio Addaccio della Chiesa. Should you not wish to climb up to the rifugio, (and later return to this junction) you can turn right following the National Park Mountain bike signs 5 to Passo S. Leonardo. However, not to continue climbing up to the lovely rifugio and then across the flower-strewn meadow to the Fonte and there to sit and eat your panino, is to miss out.

Rifugio Addaccio della Chiesa

After a break, a snack and a exclamations about the setting, you return to the junction of MTB Route 5. The descent down an old mule track is wonderful - steep enough to be cautious, but not so steep as to be silly. The path begins as lushly lined, rich in green and heavy with oxygen, and then as the descen towards the pass continues, you re-enter the pastures of flowers and short grass. The track ends at Passo San Leonardo.

It is hard to credit in high summer, but this area receives tremendous amounts of winter snow. In the 1960s a ski station, hotel and restaurant were built. It was never a success as the runs were too few. It was around here too, that a platoon of Piedmontese soldiers were ambushed, and one was killed. Reprisals began the next day; a patrol found two local peasants cutting hay in their fields and they moved to arrest them for questioning. Raffaele di Pacentro surrendered, whilst Vincenzo Ricci fled. He was chased, shot and killed. Tensions remained high for weeks and many of the male peasantry took to the hills and the gangs of ‘bandits’ harried the Piedmontese ‘occupiers’. By late 1862 the country had been subdued and the unification of Italy continued.

The ride continues through abandoned fields where ‘tholos’ - dry stone huts - still stand. The track is marked as CP7. The huts and their construction are fascinating.

The village communities, given small pieces of land after the break up of the Feudalism in the late 18th century, began their obsessive clearing of stones , first in piles and enclosure walls and later into the dry stone huts based on those in Apulia. What was initially seen as an obstacle, the stones became a companion, an instrument and an expression of communal civilisation.

On summer weekends the area of huts known as Cicuta, can be quite popular and drifts of roasting mutton and summer laughter mingle with the mountain air. The route continues to descend through fields and woods until it runs beside the river Vella. Returning to the SS 487, there’s some smooth tarmac to enjoy before turning off and heading back up on another mule track to Passo S. Leonardo. Once back on the pass, the track marked as Q8 leads to Roccacaramanico, a small hamlet, which served as a small fortified settlement to protect the lands of the Abbey of Causaria.

From the village which, after years of neglect is quietly being restored by Romans seeking a holiday home in the mountain coolness, the ride continues on another mule track which is signed as Q7. Beside the river, remains of old watermills have been gobbled up by the vegetation, but on a hot summer’s day the old mill races make for a fabulous - if chilly - bathe. The path can be tricky when wet as the stones under the tyres are slippery, but when the path is dry, the descent is testing but not overly demanding. The last few hundred metres are on smooth tarmac as you return once more to Sant’Eufemia a Maiella. A traditional Abruzzese lunch in the Trattoria Maiella awaits.

To read the article linked to this ride, click here.

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