100km L'Aquila to Chieti (Regio Tratturo)
Looking towards the Gran Sasso
Ride overivew
Leaving the comforts of L’Aquila, you’re quickly onto the mountain tracks used by millions of animals over several millennia which cross the plains, the hills and mountain sides and which are today seem tailor made for some adventure riding. That people have been using these tracks before you is very evident; you pass the Fossa necropolis dating from the 9th century BC, and ride on the Roman Road through the old Roman town of Peltuinum. Signs of the transhumance are scattered too amongst the grandiose mountain scenery, not least the small Chiesa di Santa Maria di Centurelle, which despite its isolation played an imporant part in the annual transhumance. Once up the Forca di Penne pass, there are more tracks taking you fast downhill to Chieti. There option to climb up to the gracious town of Chieti is there, as is staying in a local agriturismo in the countryside. Either way, you’ll finish the day exhilarated and tired since most of the day is spent off road.
Ride practicalities
START/FINISH: L’Aquila; Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio/ Chieti DISTANCE: 100km TOTAL ASCENT: 4500m TERRAIN AND SURFACES: A very significant part of the ride is off-road on gravel tracks - far more than the RidewithGPS Map indicates. There are busy roads to contend with on the run in towards Chieti There are sections of hike-a-bike up some of the hills RECOMMENDED ACCOMMODATION*: L’Aquila; IL Palazzo del Pavoni, RECOMMENDED FOOD/DRINK: L’Aquila, Formø, Capestrano; Il Castello Capo d’Acqua; Il Bosso, MAINLINE TRAIN SERVICES: L’Aquila, Chieti, LINKS TO OTHER RIDES: The Gran Sasso
*Only places which meet WMWG criteria are listed. For other suggestions use your preferred App, e.g. Booking.com etc
Ride Notes
The journey begins outside the 14th century Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio on the outskirts of L’Aquila. Despite the appropriate setting for a ‘grande partenza’ with the spectacular edifice of the church, the large oval of grass for sheep in front of it, the high surrounding banks on which you might imagine families sitting in the shade of trees waving off their beloved shepherds, it is all artifice. The shepherds would not have come into the city with their flocks, but rather descended from the moutains and joined the tratturo at a convenient place. But since the church was built with wool merchant’s money as a fitting resting place for Abruzzo’s only Pope Celestino V, romantics have accorded this as the starting point.
One thing to be aware of before setting off; food, drink and accommodation on this first day are hard to find until you are in the vicinity of Chieti at the end of the day. There are possiblitlies; Naveli, (43km), Capestrano (47km) and Capo d’Acqua (50km). None are dependable, neither for food nor sleep. That is not to say they they are lacking in either, it’s just that this being Abruzzo, opening times are something of a lottery. If you wish to divide the day into two 50km days then ensure that you have booked ahead (via Booking.com or similar).
Within a couple of kilometres of leaving the Collemaggio Church, you’re out of the city and onto a wide path of earth and grass which runs between a railway track and fields. There are fabulous views of the surrounding mountains, and from time to time of the less attractive but essential new builds which house those who lost their homes in the 2009 earthquake. After about 12 kilometres you ride past Fossa, a 9th century necropolis, which in truth is a collection of scattered stones and is rather underwhelming.
After a short road break from the gravel track, you’re climbing up into the hills on a stoney track. On this section, you’ll have your first hike-a-bike stretch (for 100m) through woods, after which the views begin to unfold beneath you, across the valley.
You’re now on the Via Claudia Nova, a Roman road built by the Emperor Claudius. The straightness of a Roman road has warped in a couple of places but generally it is rule straight, rising and falling over rises and heading right across the high plain to Peltuinum. It’s superb gravel adventure riding. You’ll notice as you approach the ruins of the Roman town of Peltuinum, the stone markers along the track inscribed with ‘RT’ (Regio Tratturo). The tratturo and its use was governed by rules created by the Romans to protect the flocks which were a great source of revenue for the Roman Exchequer. One of the rules insisted that the tratturo be 111m wide. Here, you’ll see the full width in all its glory.
The off-road riding continues across the Navelli plain, to the church of Santa Maria di Centurelli, one of the most notable churches along the entire route. Inside it’s a masterpiece of simplicity. Outside, there’s shelter for shepherds and a curious statue which pays homage to the pastoralists of old. Here the tratturo splits with an off-shoot (Tratturo Centurelle-Montesecco) going further down the valley before hugging the slopes of the Maiella massif rather than going towards the coast. It re-connects with the Regio in Molise. Here too, the route for cyclists deviates from the RT, which disappears into scrub over the mountain on a path which is impossibly steep, rocky and narrow. So following the map, ride on into the appealing village of Navelli, and using a barely used road, cycle over the ridge to another pretty village, Capestrano. Thread your way through its cobbled and ancient streets, past many abandoned houses, past vineyards to Capo d’Acqua, where there’s a lake which is said to have the clearest water in the whole of Italy. As you approach the village, you re-connect with the tratturo.
You will have noticed the looming wall of mountain in front of you and yes, the ridge has to be gained. The tratturo runs die-straight up to the pass and is very arduous, requiring 2km of pushing your bike up a very stoney path. To save on effort and energy, take the narrow road with its gentler incline and much better views and no traffic. There are terraces of olives to ride past and the way is all very picturesque as the valley’s neat patchwork of small fields spreads out below you.
The Tower at La Forca di Penne was built to deter any would be marauders from sheep rustling. Even today in its ruined state, it looks threatening. From La Forca, it’s pretty much downhill all the way to the sea. Well nearly downhill, for the tracks manage to find a few hills to climb, which at least relieve the pressure on your hands which have been grasping the brakes. After a day in mountainous terrain, the descent on earthern (rather than rocky) tracks, through rich vine, grain and olive country, is a joy. The sea is ahead of you, landscape is co greener, the mountains are behind you and all is good, until Cugnoli where you join the an annoyingly busy road to Chieti.
Chieti, like most Italian towns, is perched on a hill. It’s a noble place of great antiquity where there are Roman ruins, a superb museum and elegant streets. But to get to it will mean not only braving the traffic which can be bothersome after 100kms or so of almost traffic-free riding, but having to add to the already large total of more than 1500m of climbing. That said, other options regading accomodation and good dining are in short supply. Check the booking apps to see what’s available in the local agriturismos.
Every route on this website has been carefully researched as well as ridden. However situations on the ground can change quickly. If you know of changes to this route, or cafes, pubs and the like which you think other cyclists need to know about, feel free to share your thoughts below.
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